the Art and Science of Bouldering

the Art & Science of Bouldering

Welcome to the Art and Science of Bouldering! This 237 page e-book is an extension to our printed german book Lizenz zum Bouldern. You find all the content of that book in here, much of it has been updated with interactive elements added.

The interactive features are the parts that take you beyond the basic reading experience, where you’re just looking at a page, and give you a deeper experience, like hyperlinks that let you navigate around the file. Our test readers reported that they felt more drawn in and thus held their attention longer compared to printed books. The book is designed to be read on screen, though if you want you can print it out too.

Note that while there are often links to videos for further reference, they are not part of the document to keep file size manageable! (ca. 160mb)

the Art and Science of Bouldering is easy to read on virtually any device. It has been thoroughly tested with Good Reader and PDF expert on iPad 2 & 3, (later models of course are more performant) as well as on Android devices and of course Adobe Reader on different computers.

the Art & Science of Bouldering

the Art & Science of Bouldering

the Art and Science of Bouldering is fully indexed to make it easy for you to find your way around.

the Art and Science of Bouldering Chapters & sub-Chapters:

the Art & Science of Bouldering

„This book is more than a book, it is really a manifesto! It is personal, eccentric, and beautifully designed.  I just love the thoughts you provide on the matter, as you could imagine, …brilliant stuff man. This is a work of art itself Udo“ – Francis Sanzaro, author of the Boulder – a Philosophy for Bouldering

Udo bouldering in Fontainebleau, late eighties

Udo bouldering in Fontainebleau, late eighties 

In retrospect I‘ve been working on this book since 1982, when I was in Fontainebleau for the first time, knowing that bouldering would keep me busy for the rest of my life!

In 2000, Klem Loskot and I visualized our thoughts about climbing and bouldering in our book Der XI. Grad (the eleventh, i.e. 9a Grade). Der XI. Grad, Klettern am Rande des Menschenmöglichen was the first book about climbing to show series of movements and photomontages to illustrate the dynamics of climbing.

Der XI. Grad by Udo Neumann and Klem Loskot

Der XI. Grad by Udo Neumann and Klem Loskot

Now the time is ripe for a truly new publication about bouldering! On the one hand, bouldering has become very complex and multifaceted, on the other hand many phototechnical possibilities were inconceivable when Der XI. Grad was created. Super short wide-angle lenses and digital full frame cameras capable of taking 8 or more images per second into a large buffer, interval shooting, and also the possibilities of modern software e.g. for creating photomontages are developments that were still just a dream when Der XI. Grad was written. For the analysis of the Bouldering World Cup in Eindhoven e.g. we took more than 28,000 images in two days, including HD video, to be able to better analyze timelines later on. On the respective pages you often find montages comprised of dozens of images shot over a period of several hours.

How to win the Boulder World Cup

How to win the Bouldering World Cup

For the visual types amongst us, a good image offers more information than an entire climbing technique guide does. In the Art and Science of Bouldering there are hundreds of inspiring images and sequences like this. All images are candid shots showing specific situations. This trains the eye for movements and lines – something that is essential for bouldering!

Balance and contact points, Adam Ondra

Balance and contact points, Adam Ondra

the Art and Science of Bouldering therefore is image-based. Textual information is provided through associated captions to illustrate correlations and supplement visual information. Another level of information is provided by means of mind maps to clarify specific correlations.

Climbing Technique - Body Tension

Climbing Technique – Body Tension

 

the Art and Science of Bouldering uses a non-linear concept; therefore there is no need to read pages 1 through 100 in order to understand page 101. You can grab the book any time and always flip through it with a benefit. Independently of the grade, in terms of movement, bouldering starts where climbing ends. In bouldering gyms with seamless gym-mats e.g. climbers safely can expand their repertoire of movements. Today, in every gym and in every movie you find new ways of handling momentum and initiating movements.

Daniel Woods winning the Vail BWC 2010

Daniel Woods winning the Vail BWC 2010

the Art and Science of Bouldering shows and describes these tricks. With respect to the amplitude of these new developments there was no room for climbing basics in this book (e.g. reasons behind training concepts) – please find out more about this in my other book Lizenz zum Klettern (to be released as an English ebook soon)!

No matter how and where you decide to go bouldering, the Art and Science of Bouldering will inspire you. Enjoy!

— Udo Neumann, 2014

Climbing Technique - Mantle & Co

Climbing Technique – Mantle & Co